Glendale to Yorktown, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 62 mi.
Average Speed  - 12.2 mph
Climbed  - 1440 ft
Weather - 62 to 85 F, sunny, with a light tailwind

Wow, what a great last day for riding!  It was perfect weather on a beautiful flat road winding its way along the James River delta, and even some paved bike paths part of the way.  We went past several old plantations, including the Sherwood Forest Plantation home of our 10th President, John Tyler. Remember from your history books, "Tippecanoe and Tyler, too."  "Tippecanoe" was William Henry Harrison, who won that famous battle against the Native Americans; and then he died early in his Presidency from a fever he caught during an unusually cold Inauguration Day parade. Anyway, there seem to have been a lot of Presidents from this part of the country.  I feel a little guilty for having waited this long to visit.

Ian's been a great riding partner for these last 5 days, keeping up the pace but also taking time for conversation along the way when we can ride close enough together.  It makes the miles go faster, and the day more interesting. His recumbent bike draws a lot of attention and waves from the locals. It looks like he's riding in a recliner with his feet up; and that has a general appeal amongst non-bikers, especially.  However, we know from the laws of physics that he's still expending the same energy, given equal weights of the two types of bikes and riders.  The real advantage is the lower air resistance from being lower to the ground, but that's only meaningful at higher speeds; such as downhills, or into the wind.  The drawback comes with climbing, because he can't get the same smooth motion on a pedaling stroke as a conventional bike, where the rider's weight is right over the pedals. So, we'd usually meet up on the uphills and he'd pull away on the downhills.  Of course, the reason he got this bike was due to a disc problem in his neck that was aggravated by lifting his head back as required on a conventional bike.  This bike allows him to hold his head at a normal angle and not put undue stress on the neck.

We were clipping right along, and reached the "Historic Triangle" of Jamestown, Williamsburg, and Yorktown by late morning.  It was buzzing with traffic and tourist activity on this busy Saturday morning.  We had lunch at a fine restaurant in Williamsburg, then rode through the living history activities in their downtown, dodging tourists and their strollers in a sea of humanity. Toddlers love living history exhibits, just like they love clowns.

Meanwhile, our welcoming committee was organizing some festivities at the Victory Monument in Yorktown, the eastern terminus of the Trans America Bike Trail.  We rolled in on schedule at 1:30 to all the sign waving and celebratory whooping noises that three people can possibly make, at the Yorktown Victory Monument.  I had to chime in, as I was caught up in the emotion, sense of relief and accomplishment that finishing this ride inspired.  Angela, Meghan and Jesse provided the perfect exclamation point to our big adventure.

Ian and I owe Angela a huge debt of gratitude for her support driving on this leg.  It's not easy to follow the meandering path of this route through the back roads, waiting for us at some desolate location just so we can more easily access water and food, or make clothing changes.  Thanks for smiling at those times you felt like crying.  I love you dearly.

Of course, none of this would have been possible without brother Eric, who conceived of the idea in a phone call we had about touring bikes two years ago.  As far as I'm concerned, he came up with the perfect bike for safety, durability, and comfort.  The bike took a beating on several falls, sometimes with me on it; and always bounced back with the wheels still as true as the day he built them. The generator hub made a huge safety difference, especially on rainy mornings.  The gearing was just low enough to climb 12% grades at a speed I could retain my balance with.  Any lower would have been tough to balance with.  The beefed up brakes were definitely needed, and the tire width worked out well for the occasional off-roading.  The Schwalbe Marathons I went with this leg worked better than the Schwalbe folding tires we started with last year, but I kept them on hand for backup.  I followed his prescription on oiling and cleaning the chain frequently, and learned how to dial in the shift adjustment while riding.  Everything worked smoothly under all conditions.  What more can you ask for?  Then, it's just up to the rider to muster the energy each day to get up and do it again, for a total of 56 days. The blogging aspect of this trip was also Eric's idea.  I'm normally a bit more private than this, and wouldn't have blogged if he hadn't cornered me into it; but I'm really glad now that it forced me to capture some thoughts and photos for friends and family; and a record to look back on someday.  Thank you so much, Eric.  You're the best!

Ian and I had some time to conjecture about what it takes to complete a long bike journey like this.  It's not so much the physical strength or preparedness that one might guess.  For instance, I hardly ever was "out of breath," and I'm not that fit.  It really is a mental thing that's required to fight through the pain, discomfort, and self doubt.  Discomfort alone would weed out most people.  One's personal motivation has to be very strong.  Of course, you have to really want do it; which also weeds out most people.  There were moments on both legs of the journey where due to discomfort or lousy weather I wasn't sure I could finish it.   Angela knows I came pretty close to getting the bike rack out of the car in a particularly long wet climbing day in Kentucky, and she got me a Coke (not a Diet Coke ) to get me over the hump.  It worked.

Posters and everything!

Symbolically, in front of the Yorktown Victory Monument.

Ceremonial tire dipping in Chesapeake Bay.

Sporting my new T-shirt designed by Meg just for the occasion.

Mineral to Glendale, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 72 mi.
Average Speed - 11.7 mph 
Climbed  - 2320 ft
Weather - 53 to 89 F, sunny, with light winds

It was a beautiful day for riding as we worked our way around the periphery of Richmond.  Our disruption of traffic continued, but this time in the afternoon.  We were on narrow 2-lane roads at the time the school buses were on the move, and a number of times they would ride behind us, unwilling to cross the double yellow to get around us.  When possible, we would pull over into a driveway, but those were few and far between.

We rode past quite a few Civil War battlegrounds and historic sites in this area, and read some of the plaques with interest, but there wasn't enough time to read them all.

Early in the afternoon we arranged with Angela to pack what we needed for the night in panniers and mounted them on my bike.   She had reservations at our ultimate destination in Yorktown, and was meeting my daughter, Meghan and her fiance', Jesse.  They would be waiting for our arrival on Saturday, while Ian and I were to stay at a church in Glendale, with 60 miles yet to go.

This church is about 250 years old.

 

 

There's a National Cemetery at Glendale, near the site of a Civil War battle, Malvern Hill.

There were graves of quite a few victims of the Civil War battle, including a number of unknown soldiers.

Willis Methodist Church was our home for the night.

Charlottesville to Mineral, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance -  54 mi.
Average Speed -  10.9 mph 
Climbed  -  2920 ft.
Weather - 58 to 80 F, partly cloudy, light winds

On our way out of Charlottesville in rush hour traffic we rode past Monticello, and then James Monroe's home nearby.   We were on 2-lane roads with steady oncoming traffic to a degree that the cars behind us couldn't find a gap to pass us.  It was nerve wracking for all of us.  Ian's convinced that the worst drivers are the ones that won't pull to the middle and pass you because they create a bunch of angry and frustrated drivers behind them.  Anyway, we disrupted traffic flow for about an hour and nobody got hurt.

Our destination of Mineral is an old mining town. We're not sure what they mined, but it was probably lead.  The local volunteer fire department provides an area behind their station for bicyclists to camp, so that's our plan for the night. After retrieving and moving Ian's car, we made a nice dinner of homemade chili and a salad.

Fine example of an old Virginia log cabin.

Horses in the woods.

Rundown old farmhouse.

Our campsite in Mineral.

Vesuvius to Charlottesville, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 61 mi.
Average Speed - 9.4 mph 
Climbed - 4910 ft.
Weather - 58 to 80 F, overcast in the morning, sunny in the afternoon, light winds

While camping is not the ideal way to spend the night, we all three agreed that this worked pretty well by putting us where we wanted to be on the trail, and the cultural experience it provided.  We ate dinner at the store and had great service, food made with heart, and good conversation with a local patron.  Even the train coming by at night on the nearby tracks gave an authentic feel to the experience. 

It stopped raining by morning and we set out on the biggest climb of this leg, 1450 ft up to the Blue Ridge Parkway on an 8 to 12% grade.  That was a lot of exercise right out of the gate, but we made it to the top in a little over an hour.  It turns out the Parkway is a great highway, riding along the top of the Blue Ridge; and limited to non-commercial traffic at speed limits of 45.  The grades are generally 6% or less, and it's very attractive to bicyclists.  We saw quite a few that had driven their bikes up to ride along it.

By lunchtime we were back in the valley, riding back roads over rolling hills and disrupting traffic on these narrow two lane roads all the way to the college town of Charlottesville ( University of Virginia ).  We're staying in a comfortable motel and eating well tonight.

Started as a Depression-era Jobs Program, everything about the Blue Ridge Parkway is solid and high quality.  It's run by the National Park Service.

 

The views up top are extraordinary, even on an overcast day.

So, this is where Christmas trees come from.

Raven's Nest was the high point of our ride,  at 3200 ft elevation.

Down in the valleys, lots of fruit farms and vineyards.

Stone fences and walls that have stood the test of time. 

Farms in this area are over 200 years old.

 

We gave Angela the afternoon off, and she spent it exploring Monticello and learning all about Thomas Jefferson.

 

Buchanan to Vesuvius, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 44 mi.
Average Speed  - 10.3 mph 
Climbed - 2740 ft.
Weather - 50 to 70 F, rained on and off all day, light winds

Ian drove down from Chicago with his recumbent bike to join me for the final 5 days of riding.  He was also with us for the first 5 days of the first leg on the west coast.  He arrived last night and we set out on an early start this morning in the pouring rain.  At the first hour stop, Angela was there with snacks, and the rain had let up, so the ride became more enjoyable.  We stopped for an early lunch in the college town of Lexington ( VMI and Washington & Lee University).  It's a very nice looking town, as most college towns are; and we found a good Greek Restaurant, a Barber Shop, and a bike shop to get Ian's brakes adjusted.  Then it was off to the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains to camp in the little town of Vesuvious for the night.  We mostly followed a river and a railroad uphill in the afternoon, which is a very pleasant kind of route to ride.  We'll take the gradual incline over extreme ups and downs any day.  Thankfully, the rain subsided as we made camp and moved Ian's car from one place to the next.  The logistics are a bit complicated, but we'll get it all worked out.

Father and son about to ride off into a rainstorm.  I stayed in back with my brighter colors to keep traffic aware of us.

Example of a very old home, with different types of stone and brick that show how it started out smaller and was added onto over the years.

A tree full of buzzards, watching us.  Maybe I need to pick up the pace.

Gertie's Store, with camping out back, friendly service and a limited menu.

Christiansburg to Buchanan, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance -  64 mi.
Average Speed -  10.4 mph
Climbed -  3720 ft.
Weather - 48 to 68 F, Cloudy all day, Rain half the day, light winds

After a nice breakfast of eggs and bacon, I set off into the rain.  I had my warmest and most waterproof gear on.  Pretty quickly I was on rural roads passing by old farms and estates, following the river up the Roanoke Valley and eventually to the head of the Shenandoah Valley.  These valleys are situated between the "old" Appalachians, and the newer Blue Ridge mountains.  Scenery was spectacular all day, and the fall colors are just starting to appear.  Traffic was light and road conditions good. 

This bridge is actually a Virginia Tech "Smart" Highway that they can use to simulate any kind of highway conditions for testing vehicles, etc.

A view down the Roanoke Valley.

A horse lover's mailbox post.

Our destination for the day.  These towns are really old.

The James River flows through Buchanan.

View of the Appalachians from our Motel.

  

Whytheville to Christiansburg, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 54 mi.
Average Speed - 10.0 mph
Climbed -  3550 ft
Weather - 38 to 78 F, morning fog, then sunny, light wind

Finally, an easy day with nice weather.  I did have to wear gloves and ear muffs to start the day.  It took until mid-morning for the sun to burn through the fog and start to warm me up.  The route led along country roads and the kind of hills you get around pastureland. No mountains to climb.

The Virginia roads continue to be great for biking, with reasonable pavement, polite drivers, and no dogs running loose.  I can hear birds chirping and cows mooing, and even saw some deer.   I talked with some bicyclists and walkers on the New River Trail who confirmed it's a great recreational environment.

For my first time ever, I had a bee fly through a vent in my helmet and sting the top of my bald head.  Ouch!  Luckily, I'm not allergic.  I won't hold it against Virginia, unless it happens again.

We're staying at a nice B&B tonight, and got out to a sports bar in time for the Packer game.

Fog in the lowlands at dawn.  It was cold down there!

Nature's own Halloween decorations.

 

 

I rode for awhile on the New River Trail, another converted railroad.

Here's the actual New River, near Draper, VA.

Rosedale to Wytheville, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 69 mi.
Average Speed -  9.7 mph 
Climbed -  4520 ft.
Weather - 55 to 75 F, Cloudy all day, Rain through middle of day, light winds

We had a great night's sleep on the floor of the church meeting room after using their kitchen to make a nice dinner.  We're travelling with plenty of food and a full cooler, so there's no danger of us going hungry.  We get up and eat breakfast at 6 am, and I'm typically on the road by 7:30, when it's just light enough to be seen.

Right out of the gate this morning the route went over a mountain that was exactly a 1,000 ft climb, and it took me an hour to reach the summit.  It was pastureland at first and then woods most of the way up.  Only two cars came by, so it was a tranquil experience, and a very nice way to start the day.  I got the brunt of the climbing done early, then followed a shortcut ( to avoid some climbs ) on old U.S. Hwy 11, also known as Lee Hwy through a series of small towns.  One of them had a parade this Saturday morning that was just wrapping up, with riders all dressed up leading their horses back to the trailers. We stopped there to eat at a lunch counter and had to answer lots of questions about why I'd be riding in the rain, and how this bike touring thing works.

A stately old Virginia Farmhouse 

Some fall colors are starting to show up.

Great vistas everywhere you look.

Our destination today, after some route modifications, is this city named after one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, George Wythe. 

 

Lookout, KY to Rosedale, VA

Ride Stats:
Distance - 62 mi.
Average Speed -  8.3 mph
Climbed -  5460 ft
Weather - 52 to 68 F, cloudy and rain on and off all day, light winds

This was my heaviest day of climbing so far, and it was mostly due to a few individual big climbs over mountains and ridges, as opposed to a lot of small ones.  My legs are holding up surprisingly well considering the bruising and pain and stiffness in them.  We rode into Virginia today, and I immediately noticed a reduced amount of dog activity, as well as better shoulders to ride on.  The cars still race around NASCAR style, and certain drivers try to startle you, but I haven't used my pepper spray all day. 

Our home for the night is another church community room, this time a United Methodist Church.  It worked out great, and we made a donation and signed their logbook.  Some of these places have been providing this kind of service to Trans America bicyclists since 1976.  It's a pretty cool system.

I won't miss Kentucky's dogs and rumble strips on the edge of their roads.

This is that Kudzu Vine that is threatening to take over the Southeastern US.

Here's a view to the east of some mountains yet to climb.

 

On a break, studying the last climbs of the day.

 

Our host church for the night.

 

 

Hazard to Lookout, KY

Ride Stats:
Distance - 71 mi.
Average Speed -  9.5 mph
Climbed -  4500 ft.
Weather - 55 to 70 F, partly sunny, heavy rain the last 90 mins. of ride

I left the Hazard area riding on a 4-lane superhighway with a nice wide paved shoulder, and then dropped off into scenic rural two lane roads that generally followed creeks.  Lots of people here live in modest homes fronting on creeks, with little driveway bridges to get access to the road.  I can't imagine what it must look like after heavy rains. 

There are also roads that lead over mountains and ridges to get from one valley to another.  Those are the tough climbs.  The cars and trucks race up and down these treacherous steep narrow roads like they're in a race; and they really like to rev their engines as they blow by.  Sometimes the driver will honk  or a passenger will shout something out the window as they race by.  They're trying to startle me into falling off the edge of the road, but it hasn't worked.

Today's destination was a rural Baptist Church that makes it's community room available for bicyclists.  We got to meet another touring bicyclist, Hugh Donovan from Enterprise, OR; who's riding the full length of the Trans America Trail.  He's a nice young man taking a break from college to see the country.  We had a nice evening of sharing stories while we waited for the caretaker of the shelter to show up.

These signs showing the designated Transamerica Route just started appearing.  The '76' refers to 1976 when the route was first organized and ridden as part of the Bicentennial Celebration.

Coal is a big part of the economy here.  This was a small mining operation near the side of the road, but most are huge projects not easily seen from the road.

The Halloween decorations are out in full force.  I'm seeing lots of large inflatable decorations like this purple spider.

View from atop one of the 800 ft. ridges I had to climb.  It was a 12% grade almost all the way.

 

Hugh Donovan and his recumbent bike and trailer.  45 pounds of stuff in that trailer.

 

McKee to Hazard, KY

Ride Stats:
Distance - 68 mi.
Avg Speed - 9.0 mph
Climbed - 5280 ft.
Weather - 52 to 80 F, Sunny, light Winds

We had a good night of sleep in our old fashioned Motel room, and awoke to a nice dry day.  With my lack of a cell phone, we've now resorted to a more traditional SAG approach.  Angela meets me about every hour along the route to provide snacks and beverages, and to make sure I'm still alive. It worked well today.  I needed plenty of snacks to get through the climbing.

Both yesterday and today were big climbing days, with most of it coming in a few big long climbs.  I've gotten through them alright, but my legs are definitely feeling it,  One of my problems is that the climbing slows me down to a point that I'm spending more time on the bike than I probably should, so my butt is feeling the effects of that.  It feels like Utah all over again.

We made it to just outside of Hazard tonight, as in "Dukes of Hazard."  There's a lot of new development in the area and we got to stay at a more conventional modern motel.

Good example of the kind of countryside I've been riding through.

Picture worthy lawn ornaments at the end of someone's driveway.

This was where we stopped for our 11 am break.